The age of Riesling
BY W. PETER HOYNE
Few producers in the world can clearly define the charismatic, yet intense nature of the Riesling grape as well as Dr. Ernst Loosen and his wines from the middle Mosel Valley of Germany. Although Loosen's early ambitions were directed toward the study of archeology, in 1988 fate called him to carry on the family legacy, producing wine from the picturesque town of Bernkastel for more than two centuries. Loosen attended Germany's renowned Geisenheim Grape Breeding Institute school of wine making and traveled throughout the world in a quest to seek out talented winemakers. Working with ungrafted vines, some more than 100 years of age, Loosen turned to organic farming practices and low selective yields in order to express the intensity and unique characteristics of the Riesling grape in each of his vineyards. All of Loosen's six major vineyards became designated as the equivalent of "grand cru" sites under German law. Within the U.S. market he is collaborating with Chateau St. Michelle in producing world class Riesling from Washington's Columbia Valley under the Eroica label. He has become a present day master craftsman of German wine, which has earned him countless accolades from the global wine community.
1. 2005 Dr. Loosen | Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling, Auslese
The vineyards of Urziger Wurzgarten, known as the "spice garden," are expressive wines because of the high iron content of the soils. Brooding golden yellow overtones showcase a wine with spicy mango and pineapple zest that compliments a crystalline lushness in the back of the mouth. This wine speaks of breed and sophistication and is among the most memorable anywhere. | About $40
2. 2005 Dr. Loosen | Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese
This is a select late-harvest Riesling from the red-tinged, slate soils in the village of Erden. Known for powerful edge, this wine enters your mouth with deep yellow plum and honeyed melon fruit that is supported with a backbone of refreshing minerality. This wine is certain to be a classic from the immortal 2005 vintage. | About $30
3. 2006 Dr. Loosen | Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
From the village of Wehlen, the Sonnenuhr "sundial vineyards" are southwest-facing and composed of a blue slate topsoil. Herein lies some of the best producers in the Mosel Valley earning them top prices for their wines. This Spatlese, or late-harvest designation, from Dr. Loosen has a deep yellow color that opens to a bouquet of spring flowers and honeysuckle. There are savory elements of caramelized grapefruit and orange blossoms that interplay with a touch of refreshing minerality in the finish. The warmth of the 2006 harvest yielded a viscous wine that might work well as an aperitif or with a fruit tart. | About $29
4. 2008 Dr. L Riesling | Mosel Valley, Germany
These grapes are non-estate fruit sourced from local growers in the Mosel Valley who maintain long-term contracts with Dr. Loosen. The bright apple and lemon oil aromatics draw you into this refreshing Riesling that speaks less of sweetness than of balance and purity. There are generous citrus tones throughout the middle of the wine that will keep your attention focused on each sip. The screw cap design is not meant to deter the consumer but to maintain the overall freshness of the wine. | About $12