A favorite from where red wine rules
By W. Peter Hoyne
Deep roots: The Breca comes from vines that are 65-80 years old with a small yield of only one ton per acre of fruit. | Matt Marton~Sun-Times Media
Tucked away in the southwestern corner of Spain is the region of Calatayud where red wine production remains dominant and the Garnacha grape is the majestic ruler. Garnacha is also known as Grenache and is a versatile grape that thrives in warm Mediterranean climates with a strong presence in the southern regions of France. Importer Jorge Ordonez revitalized the world’s interest in the wines of Spain and among his strengths is his representations of Garnacha.
Bodegas Breca is 650 acres and was founded by Ordonez in 2005. Among its labels are a younger vine “Garnacha de Fuego” and the older sibling of “Breca.” The Breca comes from vines that are 65-80 years old with a small yield of only one ton per acre of fruit. Planted at high elevations these steep hillside soils are composed of slate and clay. The combination of high elevation and low yields produces a concentrated Garnacha with dense textural qualities.
The 2010 Bodegas Breca “Breca” is a brilliant opaque purple color with a delicate fragrance of freshly crushed berries. This wine has a silky fabric with a generous serving of black raspberry marmalade and candied mulberries that are dusted with cocoa. The tannins are sweet and integrated. Although attractive now, its true potential may be realized in a few years. Since this wine has been highly touted as one of the best recent values from Spain, it may be wise to stock up before inventories are depleted.
Suggested retail - $16.99
W. Peter Hoyne has been a wine journalist for over 20 years, covering stories of national and international significance. While his professional relationships in the wine industry have allowed him to share a unique perspective of wine, he is also intrigued by the culinary aspect and harmony that exist between wine and food. As a wine advocate, he is committed to consumer education and is focused on upcoming trends and American wine-buying habits.